Something you should do any time your vape begins to taste funny is clean your tank. You’ll have to break down each and every part of the device. Between coils that exude gunk from sucralose-laden juice to scorches from dry hits, atomizers are like temperamental children. Without constant care, they can act out in a hurry. Using a dish drying mat, vape mat, or something equally absorbent, carefully unscrew your tank or RDA, removing all individual parts, and removing all e-liquid. Be sure to keep things organized so nothing gets lost along the way. Then, carefully run each part under warm water, being sure to remove all o-rings and seals for a thorough cleaning. You’d be amazed at how much e-liquid can accumulate under even the most secure rubber gaskets.
This is a good time to check the tank glass for cracks or dings. If there are any flaws in the glass, reachinto the box for a spare, otherwise be ready for a less-than-optimal vape due to a loss of vacuum pressure in the tank. Once rinsed clean, place each part on the drying mat, wipe with a clean cloth, and let them air out for a few minutes. When everything is dry to the touch, simply put everything back together, keeping an eye out for any aging or deteriorating parts, like o-rings, grub screws and 510 pins. (There IS a reason most companies give you extra parts in the box.)
Now, simply replace the coil, fill if needed, or stow it away for a (vape) cloudy day.
Chances are, if you own a modern box mod, it has a larger screen which attracts fingerprints like moths to flames. But even older devices need to get regular wipe downs to ensure stray dirt, grime and e-liquid doesn’t burrow its way into ports and gaps leading to delicate circuitry. If you perform regular once-overs with a clean cloth, you should be all set, right? Well, it’s not quitethat easy – not if you want your mod to last, that is.
One of the most neglected areas on today’s mods is the 510 connection. These are usually made of metal, and are press-fit, meaning there are often gaps and spaces that could allow e-liquid to seep into the vital technology beneath the surface. Between these potential gaps, and the nooks and crannies of the 510 threading, it won’t take long for condensation, liquid and other grime to work its way into the cracks, potentially affecting the firing of your device. Using a clean cotton swab, and a VERY light dab of isopropyl alcohol, you can access these areas, absorbing any stray moisture, and adding a nice level of shine along the way. I typically clean these areas with every tank change or refill. Even the most snug, airtight tanks are going to exude some level of moisture, and unless you want a lingering problem, it needs to be addressed regularly.
Oh, before we forget, never forget to clean perhaps to most germ-ridden, filthy part of any vape tank –the drip tip. Yes, your mouth is filthy. Don’t worry, they all are. But the combination of hot breath, hotter vaporization, saliva, and stray e-liquid, your drip tips are probably in dire need of a bath Immediately. To be sure you’re getting rid of all the germs, you might want to make the biggest deal about one of the smallest parts of your vape collection. In other words, don’t simply run it under lukewarm water and expect things to be sanitized.
Instead, be sure to detach the drip-tip, get some hot (not boiling) water, and a good dose of anti-bacterial dish soap. Then soak and scrub. After a really good dip, and a lot of rinsing, let the drip-tips air dry on the mat. Then they’re ready to go, providing all the enjoyment you expect, without any unwanted bacteria.
Your other vape tools and gear should receive equal attention when cleaning. Tweezers, RBA decks, screwdrivers – they all come in contact with heat, moisture and dirt, and should be cleaned regularly. Vape mods and tanks are devices designed to eject vapor you inhale into your lungs. Considering this, running tanks and drip tips in some hot water doesn’t sound like such a bad idea, does it?